🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.